A night under the stars
Camping in the White Desert
A night in the White Desert is a simple Bedouin-style camp set up by your driver and cook among the chalk formations: a windbreak of carpets, mattresses and thick blankets, a fire, a grilled dinner and sweet tea, and a sky full of stars. It is comfortable but basic. There is no phone signal, no electricity and usually no toilet beyond a rock or a small toilet tent, and in winter the night gets cold. Most people say it is the best night of their Egypt trip.
Hour by hour
How the night goes
- 1Late afternoon. You reach the Old White Desert as the light turns gold and walk among the chalk mushrooms while the team sets up camp.
- 2Sunset. The white rocks turn pink and orange. This is the hour for photos.
- 3Dinner. Usually grilled chicken or meat, rice, vegetables and salad cooked over the fire, then Bedouin tea. Vegetarian food is easy; tell us in advance.
- 4The sky. With no towns for many kilometres, the stars come out in thousands. Lie back on the mattresses and look up.
- 5Sleep. Most people sleep in the open camp behind the windbreak, or in a small tent if they prefer. Bring warm layers.
- 6Sunrise. The formations glow again in the first light. Breakfast, then the drive back.
What to expect
Tents, toilets and comfort
A standard camp is a semicircle of carpets and canvas against the wind, with mattresses, pillows and heavy blankets inside. Many operators also carry two-person tents for anyone who wants walls around them. Camps are temporary: everything arrives in the 4x4s in the afternoon and leaves with you in the morning.
Toilets are the desert itself, a short walk behind a rock. Some trips bring a small toilet tent; ask when you book if that matters to you. Bring toilet paper, wet wipes and a bag to carry rubbish out. There is no shower, so wipes and a little water are your wash for the night.
Winter nights
How cold it gets
From December to February the camp can drop close to freezing after midnight, and even in spring and autumn nights are cool. Sleep in a warm layer, a hat and socks, and keep a jacket by your mattress. See the month-by-month guide and the packing list.
Night visitors
Desert foxes and other wildlife
The White Desert is a national park, and small desert foxes, including the big-eared fennec, often come close to camp after dark looking for scraps. They are shy and harmless; enjoy them but do not feed them, and keep food and shoes inside the camp. Scorpions exist but are rarely seen in the cool months; shake out your shoes in the morning.
Off grid
Phone signal and charging
Expect no phone signal and no electricity once you leave the road. Bring a charged power bank, a head torch and spare camera batteries, and tell family you will be offline for the night. The team stays in touch with the outside world and knows the way out.
Before you book
How to choose a good camping trip
- 1One car per small group. A 4x4 shared by four to six people is comfortable; ask how many will be in yours.
- 2Two vehicles for remote camps. Experienced teams travel with a second car further from the road.
- 3Proper bedding. Ask what they bring: mattresses and enough blankets or sleeping bags for winter.
- 4Leave no trace. A good team carries every bit of rubbish out of the park.
Our own trips use local Bedouin drivers and cooks from Bahariya. See White Desert trips from Cairo and how many nights to spend.
Asked often
White Desert camping, answered
- Is camping in the White Desert comfortable?
- Comfortable but basic: mattresses, pillows and heavy blankets in a windbreak camp, a fire and a cooked dinner. There is no electricity, no signal and no shower.
- Are there toilets at the White Desert camp?
- Usually not. You walk a little way behind a rock. Some trips bring a small toilet tent, so ask when you book. Bring toilet paper and wet wipes.
- Do you sleep in a tent?
- Most people sleep in the open camp behind the windbreak to see the stars, and small tents are often available for anyone who prefers one.
- Is it safe to sleep in the open desert?
- Yes, with a licensed operator. The team stays with you all night. The desert foxes that visit are small and harmless.
- What food is served?
- Usually a grilled dinner with rice, vegetables and salad, then tea by the fire, and a simple breakfast. Vegetarian and other diets can be arranged in advance.
