The temple most ships pass by
Esna temple and its restored colours
The Temple of Khnum at Esna is a Greek and Roman-era temple to the ram-headed creator god, sitting about nine metres below the streets of the modern town. Only its great columned hall survives, but recent cleaning by Egyptian and German restorers has removed centuries of soot and dirt to reveal ceilings and columns in their original blues, reds and yellows, including astronomical scenes. Most large cruise ships pass Esna only for the lock, so the easiest ways to see it are a dahabiya that starts at Esna, a private stop on the drive from Luxor, or a ship that includes it.
Inside the hall
What to see
- 1The ceiling. Painted astronomical figures, constellations and deities, now bright again after cleaning.
- 2The columns. Twenty-four columns with carved capitals in different plant designs, many with their colours restored.
- 3The texts. Some of the latest hieroglyphic inscriptions in Egypt, from the Roman period, including hymns to Khnum.
- 4The setting. You walk down from the town's market street into the sunken hall, a striking contrast with the modern houses above.
Fitting it in
How to see it on a Nile trip
Large ships queue at the Esna lock, often at night, and few stop for the temple. On a dahabiya that starts or ends at Esna, the temple is often part of the programme or an easy addition. Travelling from Luxor, a private car can stop at the temple on the way to a dahabiya at Esna, about an hour south. A visit takes about an hour.
See the Esna lock, Edfu, Kom Ombo and the sailing days and the sites only dahabiyas reach.
Prices
Boats that make it easy
Dahabiyas such as Loulia and Lazuli Karnak start at Esna. Dahabiyas run about US$140 to US$1,500 per person per night and Nile cruise ships about US$120 to US$1,500. Tell us you want Esna temple and we will build it in.
Asked often
Esna temple, answered
- Is Esna temple worth visiting?
- Yes, especially since the restoration revealed its original colours. It is a single hall, so a visit takes about an hour, and it is one of the best-preserved painted ceilings in Egypt.
- Do Nile cruises stop at Esna temple?
- Few large ships do; most only pass the Esna lock. Dahabiyas that start at Esna often include it, and a private stop on the drive from Luxor is easy.
- Why is Esna temple below ground?
- The town grew up around and over it for centuries, so the ground level rose about nine metres. Only the columned hall was dug out.
- Who was Khnum?
- A ram-headed creator god who, in Egyptian belief, shaped people on a potter's wheel and was linked with the Nile's source and its flood.
