Aswan

A Nubian village visit from a Nile cruise

From an Aswan cruise mooring, a Nubian village visit is a half-day trip by motorboat: about 45 minutes upstream past the granite islands of the First Cataract to a painted village such as Gharb Soheil, tea in a family house, henna and crafts, and back at sunset. Most boats sell it as an optional excursion for the free Aswan afternoon; some longer itineraries include it. It is the easiest way to meet Nubian culture on a cruise.

The afternoon

What happens on the visit

  1. 1The boat ride. About 45 minutes by motorboat south from Aswan, past Elephantine and through the granite islands of the First Cataract, with birds in the reeds and the dunes of the West Bank to your right.
  2. 2The village. Usually Gharb Soheil, on the West Bank: sand lanes and domed houses painted in blues, yellows and murals.
  3. 3Tea in a family house. A Nubian family hosts you in their courtyard with hibiscus or mint tea, bread and sometimes a meal.
  4. 4Henna, crafts and a school visit. Henna painting, baskets and beadwork for sale, and on some visits a short Nubian language lesson.
  5. 5Back at sunset. The ride back to the boat is often the best part, with the light low on the cataract rocks.

Background

Who the Nubians are

Nubians lived along the Nile from Aswan south into Sudan for thousands of years, with their own languages and building style. When the High Dam filled Lake Nasser in the 1960s, many villages were flooded and their people resettled. The villages near Aswan, such as Gharb Soheil and those on Elephantine Island, kept the old look, and visitors are now part of their living. For the history, the Nubian Museum in Aswan is the place to start.

Good to know

How to do it well

  • Go in the afternoon, so the ride back is at sunset.
  • Ask before photographing people, especially women and children.
  • Some houses keep young crocodiles to show visitors. If that makes you uncomfortable, say so; nobody minds.
  • A camel ride up the dunes is often offered; agree the price first.
  • Bring small notes for crafts and a tip for the family that hosts you.
  • Ask for a smaller visit: some villages get many boats at once in high season, and a guide can choose a quieter house.

From each boat's itinerary

Boats that include or offer the village

Most Luxor to Aswan boats offer the Nubian village as an optional extra for the free afternoon in Aswan, priced separately; ask us for the price on your boat. Seven-night round trips are the most likely to include it. On board, the Oberoi Zahra, Sonesta Moon Goddess and Sonesta Sun Goddess also hold a Nubian music evening.

On a dahabiya, the crew is often Nubian, and boats stop at small villages and islands along the way. See dahabiyas (about US$140 to US$1,500 per person per night) or Nile cruises (US$120 to US$1,500), and the rest of Aswan on a Nile cruise.

Asked often

The Nubian village, answered

Is a Nubian village visit included in a Nile cruise?
Usually not: most boats sell it as an optional excursion for the free afternoon in Aswan. Some seven-night itineraries include it. Ask before you book.
Which Nubian village do Nile cruises visit?
Most often Gharb Soheil, on the West Bank south of Aswan, reached in about 45 minutes by motorboat through the First Cataract. Some visits go to the Nubian villages on Elephantine Island instead.
Is the Nubian village visit worth it?
Yes for most guests: the boat ride through the First Cataract is beautiful, and tea in a Nubian house is a break from temples. Go in the afternoon so you return at sunset.

Helwa Ya Baladi

Dalida